Obviously students here at IH Cairo ILI come from far and wide to study Arabic with us; institutions like these ones are veritable melting pots of culture. However, the majority of our students are European, British or American, so chances are that this new and exotic world, with its rich cultural history and different social norms, is likely to pose some challenges and bring a shock to the system. That being said, with a little bit of effort and some determination, Cairo can change from being an unknown metropolis into a home away from home.
I am living in a local area of the city, almost as close as you can get to the pyramids, where there are far fewer foreigners than in other parts. The benefit of this is that I have been immersed in true Egyptian living from day one. Stepping out of the taxi it was hard not to feel like ‘A Legal Alien’ to coin Sting’s famous phrase! My flat is down the road from unfinished construction and dilapidated buildings, not to mention the overflowing skip teeming with stray cats and the outdoor butchers, which at the time was packed with live sheep about to be sacrificed for Eid.I realised very quickly that settling in would require more than just a quick stroll around the area to orientate myself. Feeling ‘at home’ has involved acclimatisation on a large scale; turning a blind eye to things that would not be comprehendible in England and learning to appreciate the area I am living in and understand the way of life of my neighbours.
I have in fact discovered that there exists in my local area a warmth and a community spirit, and a lifestyle that feels comfortingly rural, despite the city rising up all around. Everyone knows each other; children play football in the street and neighbours stop to chat to one another. There is always a ‘friend of a friend’ on hand to help with anything, from plumbing to banking and as one of the only foreigners in the area, I am met with kindness on a daily basis.
Shopping for my flat
Wandering down to the local stalls you can pick up everything you need: Fish, meat, eggs, vegetables and bread and all at a reasonable price. Many people in England, at least, have forgotten what real food is like as a result of a lifestyle of convenience. In this country, however, good wholesome food, cooked from scratch, is the norm. It is this step to shopping from local vendors which makes you known to the area that you move into, and so I would urge anyone coming to Cairo to not rely solely on large supermarkets as, in doing so, you'd miss out on forging relationships with those working within your local area.
Buying household goods like furniture and kitchenware is a totally different experience in the back-streets of Cairo as well; and well worth experiencing if you get the chance. The shops are more like small bazaars, where the stock consists of whatever the owner can get hold of at the time (from where I couldn’t even begin to imagine!) but if you are willing to settle for what they have, you can pick up a bargain. The picture below is of the stunning Turkish pot set I brought for just 200LE, which is about £20! I am also currently waiting for a furniture seller in my area to acquire a sofa-bed that he will sell me for as little as 400LE, or £40. This way of shopping suits someone who is extremely indecisive as the element of choice is removed completely, providing far less of a headache and making shopping infinitely less time-consuming. As with all bargains, you do sometimes have to accept a slightly lower quality than the expensive stuff- things don’t always work quite as well as they should perhaps… but for someone like me who doesn’t have lots of money to spare and wants the basics at a good price, it’s a steal.
Don’t despair, if the thought of 'Walking like an Egyptian' through the local areas does not have the same romantic appeal to you that it does to me. Should you want to spend a little more then, of course, there are larger shops which might well have more options. Spinneys, Metro and Carrefour are amongst the collection and are a taxi ride away from anywhere. They have all the necessary frozen and pre-prepared and or packaged foods like any other supermarket. The bigger-out-of-town stores are much like Tesco (or Walmart if you are American), where you can find almost everything under one roof.
Another key advantage of living in an area where there are fewer foreigners is that you get to practice Arabic on a daily basis. Usually when I head into my neighbourhood to 'buy local' I am met with, initially, shock – the vendors are not used to seeing a foreigner and, even more shocking, a foreigner speaking Arabic! But with a little language effort you will notice the development of a feeling of camaraderie. I am proud to say that I have recently and on more than one occasion, been told "Araby Kowaiyesa" which means "Your Arabic is good". They were proud moments!
Despite this, there is always the potential that you may get overcharged for some of the produce so, prior to heading out just check what the average prices should be. The potential for being subjected to inflated prices is, unfortunately, constant and I am gradually realising that it’s often one price for Egyptians and one price for tourists (usually one that has a number of extra zeros after it!)
To avoid any awkward moments it can be useful to maintain an appropriate distance with men you may interact with in the streets (and anywhere, for that matter) and it is good to just be aware that being in a local area can invite some stares which can be a little discomforting. I paid many trips to these small shops with my boyfriend first before going solo but if you do not have a boyfriend to take you around your new neighbourhood, don't be overly friendly. Keep interactions professional and you will be fine! Of course, you can always don a ring and just pretend you are married!
So I hope you have enjoyed this, the first installment! I hope to keep you all updated with stories from my life settling into Cairo. There will, surely, be many tales to be told along the way. On that note, my next blog will explain the concept of ‘Egypt time’(as I have affectionately labelled it) and describe what happens when you mix it with purchasing goods from the local stalls…..Intrigued?! I will also bring the blog to the present as it is finally time, after many weeks of procrastinating, to explore the world of British ex-pats, with a trip to the British Community Association of Cairo, in El Maadi.
The view from the end of my street!
My Beautiful Turkish Pots!
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